We hit the trail at 8:30 am, leaving Phakding behind and heading toward the iconic village of Namche Bazaar, often called the “Downtown of the Khumbu.” While Lukla has the airport and a hospital, Namche is surprisingly four times larger—despite having no road access. Everything here arrives by foot, hoof, or helicopter.
The trail was impressively well-built—stone-paved paths, steps with handrails, and six dramatic suspension bridges crossing the Dudh Kosi River. The final bridge was over a football field long, swaying under the weight of single-file parades of yaks, dzos, and mules. With 50+ pack animals coming at you, you wait your turn—or risk getting shoved off the trail.
We climbed more than 3,500 feet over 6.5 miles, and for the first time, the snow-capped Himalayas came into full view. As we gained elevation, the towering pine trees gave way to shorter forest—and thinner air.
We reached Namche at 3 pm and collapsed into a two-hour nap at a surprisingly luxurious lodge: hot showers, twin beds, and panoramic mountain views. That night, we shared stories with trekkers from Spain, Israel, France, and Japan. The Israeli group had just completed three years in the military—and were enjoying some well-earned freedom.
We’ve reached 11,000 feet above sea level, and the thin air is definitely noticeable. I spent 10 weeks sleeping in a hypoxic tent—over 400 hours at a simulated 15,000 feet—to prepare for this. Meanwhile, Matt is holding his own like a pro, fueled by his training on the Appalachian Trail.
Today, our climb was dedicated to Adalynn, a brave young girl from Tennessee who’s about to begin a bone marrow transplant. Her strength and spirit fuel our purpose on this journey.
Tomorrow is a lighter day as we continue acclimatizing. We’ll spend one more night here in Namche Bazaar before heading out Saturday toward Deboche.